In the realm of really great bird photographs – the National Geographic cover shots and international contest winners – the subjects are almost always shown in flight. And it makes sense: action shots are more engaging than static images, and the action of flight is the one thing that most expresses what it is to be a bird. So not surprisingly, within the world of wildlife photographers, Birds in Flight – or “BIF” – is a particular specialty with its own unique skill set.
Capturing great images of a birds in flight requires patience, skill, and judgement. I don’t claim to be anywhere close to having mastered this particular aspect of photography, but I have learned a few things along the way. Consider this a beginners’ guide to BIF.
Birds in Flight – What makes a Great Image?
Technical qualities. Needless to say, as with any great image, a BIF photo should show crisp focus, proper exposure, and enough depth of field so that the whole bird is in focus
Activity. An image of a bird in its element is good enough, but it will be more engaging if the bird is doing something recognizable – carrying prey or nesting material, taking off or coming in for a landing, feeding, engaging with other birds, etc.
Composition. As a general rule the bird should be:
- Flying towards the photographer or seen from a side view. The rear end view of a bird flying away is rarely interesting.
- Looking towards the viewer. For the best results the focus point should be on the nearest eye.
- Captured with its wings and legs held in an attractive manner.
And be sure you leave some space in front of a flying bird. The image will look a bit claustrophobic if the bird does not have room to fly.
Background. A bird against a featureless white or blue sky is not as engaging as it would be with a more visually interesting background – glimpses of its habitat, for example a Northern Harrier over grassland or a Red-shouldered Hawk flying amongst the trees, or failing that at least some interesting clouds.
Books, social media posts, and blogs on photography tend to slavishly favour the convention that the background should be out of focus lest it detract attention from the subject. This is actually a stylistic choice not a rule, and you should feel free to ignore it in favour of your own personal vision.
Approach
The really great photographs of birds in flight that you have seen in exhibitions and magazines are almost certainly products of a deliberate approach to photography. What I mean by that is that the photographer set out that day aiming to get a particular image. They planned the shoot, considering the light conditions they were looking for, the best background, and where the birds could most advantageously be seen. Thus preparation put them in the best position to get what they were looking for.
That approach does not fit in well with the normal activities of birding, which usually comprise walking around and seeing the birds as they make themselves available. However there can be good opportunities on a bird walk, particularly in open country, if you adjust your camera up in advance with the settings you would need for a BIF opportunity. Almost all of the images in this article were captured while out birding.
And sometimes you can just get lucky. I am quite pleased with the Red-rumped Bush Tyrant image which came about because on a really bright day I had dialed in a fast shutter speed just to avoid overexposure.
Settings
The most important setting you will need to adopt for shooting birds in flight is a much faster shutter speed than you normally use. Even birds like swans or herons that appear to be slow and ponderous are actually moving quite quickly. For example, as a Mute Swan flies by, its slow cruise speed of 30kph equates to almost nine metres per second – for a bird that is about a 1.5 metres long. Combined with the imperfect movement of your lens as you try to track the bird, at a normal shutter speed the resulting shot will be tend to be blurry, or at least not as sharp as you would want. So if you want to freeze the action and get a crisp shot you need a high shutter speed.
How high? There are two answers:
- It depends on the bird – what it is doing, how close it is, whether it is heading towards you or across your field of vision. Experience will be your best guide in judging how fast the shutter needs to be.
- But if in doubt, faster is always better.
Shutter Speed Guidelines for Birds in Flight
I reviewed a lot of my own BIF images when researching this article and one thing I noticed is that most of the ones I like were taken at a shutter speed of 1/1600 or higher.
For large, slow-flying or soaring birds (Canada Goose, Red-tailed Hawk) you might get away with a lower speed, particularly if the bird is in a slower phase of movement. The White-faced Ibis below is gliding in for a landing. In this case 1/800 was fast enough to catch the bird and even the water droplets falling off of it but it’s the exception rather than the rule. 1/1600 is better as a baseline – it will improve the number of “keepers” in a shooting session.
Note that the closer you are to the bird the faster it will cross through your field of vision, so an even higher speed may be needed.
For smaller and/or faster-moving birds the need for speed increases. Each situation is different but as a starting point I would suggest the following minimum speeds:
- Gulls and other medium-sized birds – 1/2000
- Swallows, martins and small passerines (e.g. flycatchers, chickadees etc) – start at 1/3200 and be prepared to go up from there, especially if the bird is flying towards you.
- Hummingbirds – these are a special case. When they are hovering, the best images often show a fair amount of blur of the wings while the body remains stationary (and thus in sharp focus). The blur gives the impression of how fast their wingbeat really is – up to 80 beats per second.
Technique
Even the fastest shutter speed won’t guarantee a good image. You also need to be able to track the bird closely enough that your autofocus can achieve a lock. Modern cameras have fairly advanced abilities to achieve and maintain focus lock on a moving target, but you can help things out by developing and practicing good habits.
- Tracking. When you are photographing a series of birds flying across your field of vision, the natural tendency is to aim at a bird as it approaches and then try to twist your body to track it along its line of flight. More experienced BIF photographers decide where they want the bird to be when they take the shot, considering background and proximity, and set there feet so that when the bird hits that point it is straight in front of them. This gives them the greatest control at the critical moment. They then wind their torso left or right to the point where the bird will first appear. It’s a simple trick but it works. The image at the top of the page was shot using this method. A series of Short-billed Dowitchers were flying across a lagoon so it was possible to predict their movement and be set up for the side-on flight shot.
- Burst Mode. Even the best autofocus system will struggle to keep a moving target constantly in sharp focus. There will always be moments when the focus wanders a bit before the system corrects itself. You can help ensure you come away with some sharp images by firing bursts rather than single frames. To do this, set your shutter release mode to Continuous Low or Continuous High and hold the shutter release down when the bird enters your target zone.
A side benefit of firing bursts is that it also gives you a better chance of acquiring an image where the bird is doing what you want it to do – looking towards you, holding its wings in a graceful manner, etc. Note the series of unprocessed images of an Andean Gull below. This short burst took less than one second but you can see the variety of shapes and wing positions during that span. Longer bursts increase the chances of getting the shot you really want.
- Environment. You can also use the wind to your advantage. All else being equal a bird flying into a headwind will be moving more slowly relative to the ground observer and thus easier to track.
Light
The use of fast shutter speeds significantly reduces the amount of light that reaches the camera’s sensor. In practice this means that BIF photography in low-light conditions will necessitate high ISO values with the attendant problem of excessive noise. The best results tend to come when there is full daylight but without the harsh glare of the midday sun. Days that are brightly-lit but overcast can provide excellent conditions as overly-bright highlights will be less of a problem, but in this case you will want to have something in the background other than a pale grey sky.
And if you are shooting upwards on a bright day, for example at a soaring raptor, remember that exposure compensation is your friend. Increasing your exposure by a stop or two will avoid the dreaded underwing shadow and help you bring out the colour and detail of the bird’s undersides.
Equipment
In most situations all you need to start experimenting with birds in flight photography is the camera you already have (DSLR or mirrorless) and a telephoto lens. For close range work, for example chickadees at Lemoine Point, a shorter telephoto in the 200mm range will work, otherwise you should look for a lens of at least 300mm. My article on the September Blue Bill identified some good choices at various price levels.
The only caveat is that if you start to shoot in long bursts you may need to upgrade to a faster memory card.
If you become really enthusiastic about BIF then you may eventually want to look at a tripod with a gimbal mount. I may eventually head in this direction, but at the moment I almost exclusively hand-hold my cameras so I am not in a position to recommend specific options.
Practice
Like any other photography skill your ability to photograph birds in flight will improve with practice. Fortunately you don’t have to go far afield to work on your skills – nature has provided us with an ample supply of gulls, feral pigeons and Mallards that are abundant, easily found, and not too afraid of people. They are great subjects to work with as you start out on your BIF journey. Good shooting!
…and if you find all of this too easy, and you really want to drive yourself mad, there’s always IIF – insects in flight. 😊